Hampi - Where Time Stands Still

The interest to visit Hampi grew suddenly when one day I was watching Discovery channel and the program was on a grand lost city called VijayNagar which existed almost 600-700 years ago. For those who are not aware, almost 600 – 700 years back VijayNagar was one of the best developed cities in the world at that time with all modern facilities. VijayNagar was situated in the bank of river Tungavadra. Hampi was the capital of VijayNagar. But with time the city has been converted into ruins because of the tyranny invasion of Muslim Sultans of that time. The frames in the TV shown were so captivating that I decided to visit the place. If you have a liking for historical site, this place is for you.

Before leaving, I collected all possible information from web sites and that information were really helpful. I made a handbook out of that. You can also do that if you plan to visit the place – like places of interest, dos and don’ts etc.

By early morning around 5am, we reached Hospet – a modern town which is about 13 km away from Hampi. Few travelers prefer to stay at Hospet as you get few good hotels with modern amenities here. But if you want to enjoy Hampi in a better way, in the morning or evening, better to stay in Hampi. So we took an auto-rickshaw to transport us to Hampi. Depending on the crowd, their demand varies. The driver asked Rs.200/- but later settled for Rs.100/- . The auto driver stopped in between to change his domestic gas cylinder with which he ran his auto. When I informed him that was risky and illegal, he told this was one of the ways to cope with rising prices and for survival there was no other way for him. I could understand him. The darkness was still there but was gradually fading away. There is a charm which one can feel in that part of hour. Suddenly we found ourselves in that light darkness surrounded by villages and jungles on both side of the road. After almost half hour, we passed though a narrow road between hills and road was looking like a serpent with it’s beautiful curves. I was feeling very happy inside seeing villages and greenery after a long time and was grasping the beauty of all those green scenery within me. In between we saw few ruined temples on the way, the top was totally destroyed. Soon we crossed a white big cemented gate which marked the start of Hampi, the site of which I was waiting eagerly. You can see rocks and rocks wherever your eyes could stretch. The driver showed us a pinnacle of a temple and told that that was the main temple in Hampi where still worship of God is being performed and no where else as all were destroyed. He pointed out to steps made of big rocks and told that earlier when the city was alive, people from far off used to come to temple using those stone made roads. Now that road is not in use and had been fenced. But one can easily trace that that was going towards the temple. The auto crossed another iron gate and entered Hampi temple premise and soon we crossed by that big temple and entered a narrow lane made of bricks. This main temple is known as Virupaksha Temple. Lord Shiva is being worshiped here. It was still early in the morning and we crossed by big banyan tree and stopped near a house which had restaurant above proudly displaying whatever one could get over there. Most of the houses here are having restaurant either on top with open place to sit. Local people here started the business of accommodating travelers in their houses and thus making earnings. The house where we got our stay was a newly constructed one which was beautifully coloured with light and dark brown. On both sides of corridor, total eight rooms were there with attached bath room. No other luxury. In one the owner and his wife were staying and rest were as guest rooms. The room we saw was neat and clean and new one, attached bath room was clean. That was enough for us, so we took that for Rs. 500 per day. Generally one day is enough to visit Hampi, but it’s better if you can manage two days. Rather than rushing around one can leisurely enjoy all the places. One site made my mind galloping with happiness more was the site of river Tungavada which was a few step away from our guest house. The worship was going on in temple and Shiva chants were reverberating in the air filling the atmosphere with a divine charm. I went few steps ahead to feel the river more closely. The water of the river was brown in colour, not clear water. I stood on the ghat, steps of which went down into river water and looked on the beauty of the nature. Civilizations have given us lot but have taken away and still taking away the beauty of mother earth. Perhaps to get the pleasure of being touch with nature people from far off come to these places. In that early morning few people were taking bath in the water and few were going to temple to offer their prayers.

The month was September, it was cold. We asked for hot water for bath and it was served in no time. Soon we got ready and went out in search of breakfast. We went up to one of the roof restaurant and ordered for morning staff. Soon we were joined by a group of foreigners – boys and girls in pair. Food was okay and reasonable.

Sacred Center:

Before leaving for Hampi, one of the information which I got from site was that mopeds and bikes were available there for rent, bicycles also. Normally auto charges you Rs. 600 – Rs. 700 for showing main places of Hampi depending on season. But it’s cheap and better to hire a bike and fill your fuel. I hired a bike for Rs.250 and filled 2 liters petrol which I felt later was more for the whole day travel.

First we stopped at Virupaksha temple which was minute away from our stay. On both the side of brick road, one can find colorful shops of clothes, restaurant and of other items

All the puja items were available in shops near the temple and ladies, thronged and surrounded by little children were also selling puja items. We took one offer plate comprising of two coconuts, flower, incense stick etc which was of Rs. 20. At the entrance gate one lady persuaded us to take bunch of banana saying to feed the elephant inside. I obliged. We entered temple premise which was a huge one. One could notice Hampi police station here which displayed the rules and regulation to be followed in Hampi. There was another entrance where one has to pay Rs.20 for entrance in main temple premise. Long corridors and sitting arrangements were there on both side of

Img: Virupaksha Temple.

the main temple. As you stand in center, you can feel that these centuries old pillars, corridors are trying to tell some storied which has been witnessed by these mortar, bricks. Signs of ruins were visible in every corner. A Durga Yantra and pillar was situated in the center. We went inside the main temple to offer prayer. We offered our prayer to century old Shivalinga. And we walked around the whole temple compound. It was a huge temple, now almost ruined. Most of the parts of the temples are deserted. I took few snaps. As we were roaming on the temple premise, I suddenly noticed that two monkeys were stalking us. They were

Img. Monkey stalking for banana.

after the banana in my hand. We could not find the elephant, so I gave one banana to each monkey. One was satisfied but the other kept following me as it was about to jump on me. Till I gave all the bananas it was after me. But I utilized bananas to take it’s photograph.

Just opposite to Virupaksha temple, one can see rocky hill - Matanga Hill. We crossed between Hampi Bazzar.

Img. Hampi Bazar

About a kilometer long, the east end of the temple ends at the foothill of the Matanga Hill. Both sides of the street are lined with a series of old pavilions, some of them are two storied. These structures were once part of a thriving market and residence of the nobles. Though four wheeler are not allowed, one can travel with two wheeler. I parked the bike at foothill and we stated climbing the rock hill. We were wearing formal shoes with which it’s little difficult to climb the rocky path. Better to opt for sports shoes. On the left side a very huge structure of Nandi was there sculpted out of monolithic stone.

Above that the rocks on the hill was positioned by nature in such a fashion that seemed like feet of a giant.

We moved on and found few co travelers. Pooja was finding it difficult to walk on the rocky path with her hill shoes on. She took it off. Soon we came near a Hanuman temple, a big one.

One lady was there to welcome us. She told us to offer prayer to him. We went inside and touched the feet of Hanuman and prayed to him. When coming out the lady asked for some money which I gave. But she was not satisfied and insisted for more but I denied. She started grumbling. I felt bad thinking that she might be doing this to foreigners also if they denied her request. What impression this type of behavior might give to them about India. We walked further through steep up and down rocky path and at last could have the glimpse of a horribly ruined temple – the complex of which was huge. One can easily feel that once it was a very huge and beautiful temple but it now stands to tell us the story of human jealousy, intolerance. The entire main temple apexes were destroyed. This temple was Achyutaraya temple.

Img: Achyutaraya Temple in ruins

Img: Achyutaraya Temple

We went inside by stairs and walked around and witnessed the ruined beauty and at the same time the dark side of human civilization. Ones heart fills with sorrow thinking the dance of destruction which took place here in this whole city of Hampi.

With a heavy heart, we came back to the place where bike was parked. Then we came out of Hampi bazaar and drove towards Kamalapura for Royal Center.

Royal Center:

Two/three kilometer travel and we reached royal center. It is called Royal center because the royal palaces and their activities were centered here.

The monuments, points to be seen here are endless but we managed to see Lotus Mahal. A two floor building with such architecture that it gives cooling effect to the habitat. Queen with her lady escort used to come here to spent time. Excellent architecture surrounded nicely maintained garden and lawn which fills heart with joy. Almost for next three hours we saw several important points like –

Lotus Mahal - A marvel architecture, gives cooling affect like AC inside. Queen used to spent time here.

Basement of Palaces – As the palaces were built with wooden structure, those were destroyed easily by invaders. Now only basement remains.

Elephant Stables – Domed shaped and not destroyed by invaders. Used to keep elephants.

Hazara Rama temple - it was a private temple for kings and name came as scenes of Ramayana displayed on the wall.

Mahanavami Dibba – This is tallest structure in royal enclosure. It was built to commemorate the victory over Udaygiri, now in Orissa.

Stepped Tank – It’s simply beautiful.

Queen’s bath – Place for swimming surrounded by pillars and enclosure.

Pan Supari Bazzar

Archeological Museum – Nice place to witness the time past by and to feel the people of that time.

Bhima Gate - A huge gate on which image of Bhima was sculpted.

Underground Siva temple – this temple is near the main road.

There were lots other points. But already this royal enclosure consumed most of our time. As the day was passing away, we planned to drive towards Kamalapura, mainly to go to Vittala temple.

Riverside Ruins:

Vittala Temple:

The main attraction of Hampi is Vittala temple.

Img: Vittla Temple

After asking few people we reached Vittala temple which was quite far from Royal Center. Vittala is one of the form of Lord Vishnu. Vittala temple is a sprawling campus with compound walls and towers. The sun was at it’s peak, we were feeling the heat. The broken temple gateway takes you to the past. We went inside and got to a see a chariot which was a replica of Sun temple of Konark, now in Orissa.

Img: Replica of Konark Sun Temple

As we stood there to enjoy the beauty of the extravagant architecture, one local guide came to us and asked us to take him as guide so that he could show us the place and explain us the details and history. As I had collected most of the information, I was feeling not to have any guide. But he kept on insisting me that without guide visiting this temple would be futile. I did not know why I agreed but I felt that I should listen to him. He started from Chariot. He told us that when king got victory over now Orissa, he built that chariot which was a replica of Konark Sun temple to commemorate his victory. He explained to us how the chariot was built layer by layers and can be dismantled. Earlier people used to come and rotate the wheels of the chariot thinking that would earn them blessings and thus with time wheels got misplaced. Those have been placed again but now no one is allowed to touch them. Then he explained to us about the pillars of the main platforms – maha mandap where earlier in king's time, cultural program was conducted like singing, dancing. The outer pillars of the platform emit different type of music tune when tapped in different selected points. It was really astonishing.

We then went to main temple where Vittala used to be placed. Now there is no idol. He showed us underground route to take circle- pradaksina around the bigraha. This underground facility was built for the safety of king and his relatives so that away from the eye of enemy king could perform his pradaksina, circling around Vittala. Inside that underground, water pockets are there. There were holes above and when sunlight used to falls on the underground water, it used to make the underground area full of light. Wow!! Now I saw bats hanging on the wall. The main place of idol was now dark and deserted.

He then explained the architectural beauty of the temple. One of few such amazing sculptures was one master piece which had five figures when looked from different angle and position – from angle one snake with it’s hood open, from another angle it seems Hanuman was flying, from other position it appeared a monkey was feeding it’s baby, two more. It was amazing to experience that. Then I realized if I would not have taken that man as guide I would have missed this entire minute but very important architectural masterpiece. The temple was full of such amazing beauties. Now the authorities did not allow any one under the main mandap – platform as it had become very brittle and fragile. The temple was built in such a manner that it had seven levels of architecture of different style. Now only ruins are there. The invaders kept on burning woods and other flammable items inside the temple for several days and thus bringing the temperature at such a point that it made cracks all over the platform and destroyed the beauty.

When those words were pouring on my ear, as if I was taken back to time when destruction danced on this land for several days till every thing was finished.

I thanked the guide apart from his amount and with a heavy heart and yet amazed mind we left towards Tungavadra river.

Coracle Ride:

I heard that on the other side of Tungavadra river was Kiskinda where Rama killed Bali to give Sugriva his kingdom and wife. It was a amazing feeling to keep feet on the land where Rama once walked, though as per mythology.

After driving almost a km or two, we reached the river bank. I did not had idea how we were going to cross the river. But when reached the riverbank, we found almost 9-10 people were waiting, few foreigners and few locals with bikes. With amazement we found that on that turbulent water peoples were crossing on a circular boat made of cane slice covered with plastic. I never saw such thing in life. We saw one coracle coming towards the bank.

Img: Coracle Ride and Incomplete Bridge

I positioned my bike. Both of us were feeling little uneasy. But I had to go the other side and there were no other means. A bridge standing nearby half built. With great difficulty and maneuver, I placed the bike on the coracle. With others we started floating on water with amazement and fear. I saw toughness of life. Two men were rowing the coracle with great difficulty to take it to the destination through rough water. Charge to take commuter to the other side of the river was Rs. 10/- only. How much could they earn at the end of the day of such struggle? Within 15 minutes we reached the other side of river, it was quite steep slope. Leaving these struggling people behind, we moved ahead. By the time we were feeling very hungry. But no where we could locate any restaurant. When I asked a bicyclist he guided us to a restaurant where the worked. This side of the river was quite serene and isolated compared to Hampi. Lush green paddy field covered the earth wherever we could stretch our eyes. The restaurant was surrounded by trees and plant. It was almost past 4pm. We were doubtful about getting anything at this hour. We were terribly hungry and exhausted. Luckily we got something to eat and we felt little relax. Food was not that good, but in that extreme condition, anything feels like boon from God. One does not look for delicacy that time. So many people everyday are suffering from the pain of hunger.

Recharged, we drove towards Kiskindha in search of the Sugriva cave where Sugriva used to stay when he was thrown away from his kingdom. Asking here and there we kept on driving ahead. The more we were moving inside, the more the place was becoming isolated. Only greenery and greener on both sides of road, nothing else. I started feeling little uneasy as Pooja was with me and I was wondering was it safe to go with her further inside. Suddenly I saw sign board showing a mark towards ‘Pampa Sarovar’, I took turn and entered the bike on that raw road. Both sides were covered by paddy fields and trees, no sign of human being or even stray dogs. Pooja got little scared, but I insisted to see the end. At last we saw a guest house, a bus parked near by and lot of people doing different sort of activities. May be they came here to perform some sort of ceremonies. And near by we could see a lake like water reservoir full of white and pink water lily. May be that was the Pampa, the reference of which we got in Ramayana. But to me it has lost it’s natural touch. We returned to the road and kept going inside in search of Sugriva Cave. After few kilometer, when asked, one local villager showed us a mitti road which led us to paddy fields. One couple was sowing rice in field under scorching sun.

Img. Couple at paddy filed

When asked, they told us to go inside further. The road was made to walk by villagers or maximum for cycle, not for motor cycle. It was very narrow and full of ups and downs, we reached the end of the road and saw thatched house. But we could not locate any cave. It was almost getting dark and atmosphere was getting cloudy. I too got little scared. If got trapped here, it would be horrible. Both us agreed to return back to the river bank as early as possible before the transportation service across the river got over. We reached soon the river and got to the other side of river the same way, but I was feeling sorry as I could not see the cave. It was almost dark. I remembered the caution word in police station which cautioned travelers not to loiter around in Hampi after dark as it was unsafe. Soon we were back to our room and with that first day journey in Hampi ended. After dinner, we went to sleep as we were dead tired.

Day 2:

In the morning we got up early and we Virupaksha temple to offer puja to Lord Shiva. After that we had some idli and tea from a roadside small vendor. Today we decided not to hire bike, rather to see nearby points by walk.

There was small book stall near the main temple. As books always fascinate me, I went inside the shop to have a look at the books available. I noticed that the shopkeeper was selling puja items made by Auroville. I purchased three types of incense sticks. There were books on Hampi, books from Jaico publication on spirituality, self help and there were few books on ***. I liked one book on Hampi which was full of numerous photographs, but price did not suit me. I left idea of purchasing that. The shop owner was a good person. He bear with us though we kept on surfing through few books without purchasing one. He gifted me one book on Buddha. For quite some time I was looking for a photo of Lord Buddha. When the person gave me the small pocket book on Buddha’s message, I found inside a photograph of Buddha both side laminated. I was quite amazed and happy. I thanked the shop owner.

Then we moved out of the temple premise and stated walking towards the Hampi gate. After crossing the gate, we walked towards Kamalapura. On left side, there was a very big Ganesh temple, we decided to get into the while returning. After few yards of walk, we reached near Krishna temple (cover photo).

Though there was no idol in the temple, the carvings are spectacular. Opposite Krishna temple, one could see ruins of huge puskarini – may be it was public bathing place. Little further from Krishna temple, inside a small lane, there were two significant points – Lakshmi Narasimha Temple andVadavilinga Temple.

Lakshmi Narasimha:

Img: Lakshmi Narasimha

Lakshmi Narasimha is the largest statue in Hampi. God is sitting on snake with seven head. The hood of the snake covers God’s head. Both the cross legs of God has been joined by belt. But the original statue was not like this what I could see from old picture. Goddess Lakshmi used to be there on God’s lap but this statue was damaged seriously during raid to Hampi. But still happiness fills the heart seeing such a beautiful creation by man and at the same time one can feel the destructive mind of human being.

Vadavilinga Temple:

On the same place just on right side, there was Shiva temple. This was largest linga in Hampi placed inside a chamber. The chamber always remains filled with water. Careful notice could reveal that three eyes had been marked on the linga.

Hemkunta Hill:

There is way from Sasivekalu Ganesh temple to climb to Hemkunta Hill. Soon after climbing we could see a ruined structure, southern gateway to Hemkunta Hill. Numerous number of pre Vijaynagar temples were spread across the hill. One can easily climb this hill. This is one best place to see sunset and sunrise in Hampi. One can have a nice view of Hampi too from here. Mythology goes like Lord Shiva did penance here before marrying Pampa. On this occasion gold rained on this hill, thus the name Hemakunta as hema means gold in sanskrit. From here we can see the Virupaksha temple.

Almost at 2pm, we returned to our room. Had our lunch and took rest. In the evening we gain went out, moved in the market. After spending few hours, we had our dinner in one of the local restaurants. During that hour we could witness one procession which was taken out from Virupaksha Temple. I took few photographs of that procession but as it was night, photos were not clear.

Some do’s:

Always take some SPF sun rays protection cream, apply them before going out. Or you will have your skin tan which will take lot of days to recover. Sports shoes preferable and cap. Beware from toughs. There are lot of other places which we could not cover in our two day time. Visit the site: http://www.hampi.in. Best site on Hampi with map and instruction.

At 9pm, we left Hampi for Hospet Railway station, with lot of beautiful memories of Hampi.

At same time Hampi forces one to think what destruction man can do to mankind. All the ruined structures, as if were telling it’s own story of rise, joy, aspiration, achievement, human greed, intolerance and destruction. How long more will it take for the human civilization (?) to learn to live in peace, harmony, love having compassion, respect, tolerance, acceptance for all faiths, opinions which human mind can envisage?

Reminds me the magical words of Sri Sarada Devi, consort of Sri Ramakrishna, "Destruction can be done by all, but creativity is difficult"

Away from hustle bustle of city, Hampi is one of best place to be with history.